Initially, try to determine whether any coolant is entering the combustion chambers or simply dumping directly into the lube system. But, moisture in the intake runner is also troubling. How long does it take for pressure to climb to 15 PSI? Does it continue to climb toward 20 PSI? To avoid rupture, never let the cooling system build pressure beyond 20 PSI.Ĭoolant could be leaking internally past the intake gaskets into the valley from the coolant passages located at the front and rear of the cylinder heads, especially since you mentioned that the intake bolts were loose. Instead, start the engine and let it run to temperature while you monitor the pressure gauge. Did any moisture blow out of a spark plug hole on the initial crank? Which cylinder(s)? Have you run a compression test or cylinder leak down test? What were the readings? With the spark plugs installed and cooling system full, install the radiator pressure tester on the radiator neck. What's the residual pressure in the morning? Is there any coolant on the ground under the vehicle or signs of external coolant leakage from hose connections, radiator, the four corners of the intake manifold, water pump weep hole, welch plugs, etc? With the spark plugs still removed, have an assistant crank the engine over while you watch under the hood from in front of the radiator - do not hang your head over either fender in case fluid is forcefully expelled from the engine while cranking. If you pull the spark plugs and keep them in order by cylinder, are any wet with coolant or do any appear to have especially clean electrodes and insulator as though they've been steam cleaned? With the engine cool and the cooling system full, pressurize the cooling system to 20 PSI and let it sit overnight. The even numbered cylinders are on the right (passenger) side with cylinder number 2 at front. The left (driver) side of the engine is the odd numbered cylinder bank with cylinder number 1 at front - so cylinders 1-3-5-7 are on the left, numbered front to rear. Welcome to the site from Central California!įirst, some basics. The gasket seemed to hold, there's not really any evidence of water tunneling through it. I'm really unsure what's going on over here. It seems to have some rust on the passage, and the valve looks decent, but not mint. All of the passages leading to the valves seemed fine except for the third one in on the right side, if you were to look from the front of the engine. I want to note that the bolts holding it on were quite easy to take off, and had rust on it. The aluminum manifold will be checked if it is warped with a mechanics's ruler and feeler gauges tomorrow. I just took off the intake manifold today, and the gasket is still very much fresh. When the motor runs, coolant is obviously going somewhere. If you fill the radiator in the evening and you come back in the morning, the coolant is lower than what i filled it too. It holds pressure, and when it runs it keeps at 15-16 psi, and then later drops down to about 2-3 psi when the thermostat opens. Water isnt gushing out of the motor when it runs, and pressure in the radiator is normal. Coolant has been mixing with the oil, no doubt, as the oil looks almost like a milkshake really bad. I've been recently working on a project left off by my dad on an 81 chevy k20, and i've been trying to sort out what on earth happened to the brand new small black 350 crate motor with an aluminum intake that he put in it.
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